Photographing Jaguars in Brazil’s Pantanal: A Clients Story

From a mother jaguar and her cubs playing on a sandy riverbank to solitary encounters in the morning light, Michelle Rana shares the highlights of her recent Jaguars of the Pantanal photography tour with Penda.

For Michelle, a returning Penda guest, the trip delivered some extraordinary wildlife encounters, opportunities to develop her photography and the simple pleasure of watching the Pantanal wake up from the water each morning.

The week began with a sighting that few could have hoped for: just 15 minutes into their first boat ride, the group came across a female jaguar and her two young cubs playing on a sandy riverbank.

A First Morning to Remember: Jaguar Cubs on the Riverbank

The Pantanal is one of the best places in the world to photograph wild jaguars. Michelle specifically chose Penda’s Jaguar tour as it took place in September, which marks the end of the dry season when wildlife is often concentrated around the remaining water sources. She was also drawn to the idea of staying on a ideally located houseboat right in the heart of Jaguar land rather than at Porto Jofre where most tours base themselves out of.

On their first boat ride, the group headed out at first light, cameras ready and anticipation building. Nobody could have predicted quite how quickly their hopes would be realised.

“Incredibly, after just 15 minutes, we found a female jaguar, known as Marcella, and her two eight-month-old cubs, playing on a sandy beach. We couldn’t quite believe our luck that this was our first jaguar encounter!”

The group watched as the cubs play-fought, chased each other across the sand and stopped for a drink before disappearing into the vegetation.

“The atmosphere on the boat was a mix of excitement, happiness and incredulity as we eagerly reviewed our first images on the back of our cameras.”

It was an extraordinary introduction to a week that would bring many more jaguar encounters, including several sightings with no other boats around.

The Challenge of Pantanal Jaguar Photography from a Boat

Photographing wildlife from a boat brings a different set of challenges from working on land. The current, passing boats and movement of the water can make it difficult to keep a subject in focus, while the position of the boat can limit the angles available to a photographer.

Michelle initially found this more challenging than she had anticipated. Her camera’s animal eye detection sometimes struggled with the distinctive rosette patterns of the jaguars, particularly when combined with the movement of the boat.

Penda photography guide Mike Dexter helped her adapt her approach, setting up back-button spot autofocus so she could quickly switch between focusing techniques. Throughout the week, he also offered advice on camera settings and composition, encouraging Michelle to experiment and try new approaches. Time between boat rides provided opportunities to review and edit images, too.

For Michelle, the moment when everything came together arrived on the final morning.

“We had an incredible, private sighting of a jaguar in a tree, bathed by fiery morning light. The photos I took that morning make me smile every time I look at them, both because of the happy memories of the beautiful sighting shared with lovely people and because I can see how far my photography has come.”

It is a reminder that a successful photography trip is about more than the number of sightings. Having the time and guidance to work on your technique, experiment with different compositions and come away with images you feel proud of can be just as rewarding.

More Than Just Jaguars: Wildlife of the Pantanal

Although jaguars were the main attraction, some of Michelle’s most memorable moments came from the unexpected.

One morning, the group spotted what initially appeared to be an otter swimming along the riverbank. As they drew closer, they realized it was a jaguarundi, an elusive small wild cat listed as Near Threatened on the IUCN Red List.

“I had thought the only cats we would see in the Pantanal would be jaguars,” Michelle recalls. “The excitement from our local guide, Doug, confirmed just how special the sighting was and how lucky we were to see it.”

The Pantanal’s extraordinary biodiversity makes it a rewarding destination even between big-cat encounters. Capybaras, giant river otters and an abundance of birdlife provide plenty of photographic opportunities, while the changing light transforms the river throughout the day.

For Michelle, however, it was the quiet moments that helped make the experience so special.

“I loved the peaceful early mornings on the river. Drifting along in our boat, seeing the dreamy colors of the sunrise felt like the perfect escape from an often chaotic, busy world.”

And when the afternoon’s photography was done, there was time to relax back on the houseboat.

“After getting back from the afternoon ride, I’d have an amazing hot, powerful shower, put on comfy clothes and our group would sit together, reviewing our photos from the day and chatting over a delicious caipirinha.”

It was a simple routine, but one that gave the trip its own rhythm: early starts on the water, long periods immersed in the wildlife and relaxed evenings spent comparing photographs and reliving the day’s highlights.

Why a Small Group Matters in the Pantanal

This was Michelle’s second trip with Penda, having previously travelled with us to Botswana. Across both experiences, she particularly valued the organization, the locations and the opportunity to concentrate on photography without having to worry about the logistics.

“On both trips all I had to do was show up with my camera and the rest was taken care of. Everything was well organized and ran smoothly.”

For the Pantanal, the small group was especially important. Photographing from a boat is different from working from a safari vehicle: there is often limited control over where the boat sits in relation to the animal, and photographers need room to adjust their position without getting in each other’s way.

Michelle found that having space to move around made a real difference.

Her advice to other photographers considering a trip to the Pantanal is straightforward:

“Pick a trip with a small number of guests. Having space to move about in the boat was invaluable because, unlike in a vehicle on safari, you often don’t have a lot of choice where the boat is positioned in relation to the subject so being able to move yourself really helps.”

The group itself also contributed to the experience. Michelle describes travelling with people who were considerate of each other’s needs and shared similar views on giving wildlife space and knowing when to leave a busy sighting. That made it easier to enjoy encounters at a comfortable pace, without feeling rushed.

Local guide Doug’s knowledge of the region and passion for its conservation added another dimension, while Mike’s patient, attentive approach helped Michelle get more from every photographic opportunity.

The photograph that brings it all back

Ask Michelle which single image best captures her time in the Pantanal, and she returns to Marcella.

The group had been fortunate enough to see the female jaguar several times during the week. On one particular morning, a member of the group spotted her walking along the riverbank just as the sun began to rise.

The light was beautiful. There were no other boats at the sighting. Marcella swam through the still water and climbed onto fallen trees, seemingly searching for breakfast.

“I love it because it reminds me of a truly magical experience.”

Sometimes, the best photographs are the ones that take us straight back to a moment in time, capturing not just what we saw, but how it felt to be there.

For Michelle, this image is a reminder of a special morning in the Pantanal, and one of many memories she brought home alongside stunning photographs she’s proud of and new skills she’s developed along the way.

Experience the Pantanal with Penda

Staying on a houseboat in the heart of jaguar territory means less time travelling to the best wildlife areas and more time out on the river, observing and photographing jaguars in their natural habitat.

With a maximum of six guests, spacious boats that give photographers room to work, expert photography guidance and knowledgeable local guides with a deep understanding of the Pantanal’s wildlife and ecosystems, the tour offers a chance to experience this remarkable region at a relaxed pace, with plenty of time to focus on your photography.

If Michelle’s experience has inspired you to visit the Pantanal, join us on our next departure.

Discover Penda’s Jaguars of the Pantanal photography tour

With thanks to Michelle Rana for sharing her experience and photographs. Follow her wildlife photography on Instagram at @michellerana_wild